Epoxy Flake Garage Floor Installation Instructions

Read Thoroughly Before Starting

SkipGrind No-Grind Concrete Primer is the revolutionary groundwork that sets the stage for total WiseBond Floors epoxy success. This high-performance bonding primer eliminates the need for mechanical grinding while delivering powerful adhesion to properly prepared concrete. When applied correctly, SkipGrind penetrates deep into the surface, creating a rock-solid bond that drives the strength, longevity, and professional-grade finish of your entire epoxy floor system.

Building the Proper Foundation for a Durable Epoxy Flake Floor System

When applied correctly, SkipGrind penetrates deep into the surface, creating a rock-solid bond that drives the strength, longevity, and professional-grade finish of your entire epoxy floor system.

Important Installation Notice! These application instructions are specifically designed for our weekend system to help you create a professional-grade epoxy flake garage floor. While individual product label instructions may vary slightly, these directions are customized specifically for the combined products included in your kit and intended application process.

Two-Person Application for Maximum Efficiency and Consistent Results

Avoid application on extremely cold or hot days or during wet, foggy weather. Apply with ambient and surface temperatures above 50°F (10°C) and below 90°F (32°C), and that will remain within range for at least 12 hours after application.

What Are Expansion Control Joints?

Step 1: Fill Cracks and Holes

1. Open cracks and hairline fractures with an angle grinder to approximately 1/8" deep to ensure proper bonding. Fill all cracks and voids with KreteBond Concrete Crack Filler. The material cures in about 60 minutes and can then be sanded or ground smooth for a level surface.
2. The ratio of KreteBond is 1 Part-A to 1 Part-B. Using separate scooping devices, measure equal amounts from container A and container B and place material on a mixing board. Once on mixing board, mix both components with a 6” putty knife until a uniform color has been reached. Mix for 1-2 mins. Do not mix more material than can be applied in 10 minutes.
3. Apply KreteBond into the crack with a 6” putty knife, making sure to completely fill. Push material as far into the crack as possible. Feather the KreteBond at each side of the crack to reduce telegraphing through the finish product. KreteBond may require a second coat or diamond grinding at the edges after it has cured. If grinding is required, it is necessary to grind the feathered edge of the KreteBond down to bare concrete. If the grinding and feathering process is not done properly, highlights may telegraph through the new coating system.

• Pot life: 5 minutes
• Working time: 8-10 minutes
• Cure time: 60 minutes

Step 2: Clean the Concrete Floor

1. Any surface that is about to be coated needs to be completely cured, clean and free of all contaminants.
2. Apply our Concrete Cleaner, Degreaser & Etcher to remove dirt, oil, and contaminants.
3. Sweep and vacuum the concrete surface to remove all loose debris. Thoroughly scrape and wipe away any grease or oil contamination. For heavier buildup, a power washer can be used to assist with deeper pre-cleaning.
4. Mix 1/3 gallon (43 oz.) of concentrate with 1 gallon of water in a plastic sprinkling can. One gallon of concentrate will produce 4 gallons of premix. Hot water will accelerate cleaning and etching.
5. Working in sections approximately 10' × 10' at a time, lightly dampen the concrete surface with a fine spray of water. Using a sprinkling can, apply the premixed solution evenly across the concrete. Scrub the solution into the surface with a stiff-bristled broom, working it thoroughly until the foaming action stops. Rinse the area completely with a garden hose or power washer until all visible signs of cleaner have been removed.
6. Squeegee excess water out the door and allow the surface to become damp, not wet.

Step 3: Masking The Area

Step 4: Mixing Area Setup

Set up a dedicated mixing area outside of your main application zone to prevent contamination and maintain a clean workflow. Choose a flat, well-ventilated space and place a protective drop cloth, plastic sheeting, or flattened cardboard on the ground to catch spills and drips. This barrier helps protect surrounding surfaces from epoxy splatter while giving you a controlled, organized station for accurate measuring and thorough mixing without disrupting your installation process.

Step 5: Mixing SkipGrind Primer

1. SkipGrind Primer kits are premeasured consisting of one jug of A-resin, one jug of B-hardener, and one bag of C-thickening blend. Pour the full contents of Parts A and B into a 5-gallon bucket and mix for 30 seconds. While mixing, slowly add Part C powder while under agitation. It is important to “wet-out” all parts of dry mix, scraping the bottom and sides of bucket. Incomplete mixing will cause an inconsistent finish.
2. Prepare only the amount you can use in 10 minutes to reduce work time. Do not leave the mixed material in the bucket longer than 10 minutes.

Step 6: Apply SkipGrind Primer

Best results are achieved when applied to dampened concrete. Lightly mist the entire concrete floor with a garden hose or sprinkler can. Concrete should be damp, not wet! Squeegee excess water out the door.

Make sure that temperatures will remain between 50- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity to stay below 75%.

1. While wearing spiked shoes, immediately after mixing, pour the entire batch evenly onto the concrete surface in 4”-6” wide ribbons running perpendicular across the floor. Spread at approximately 100 sq. ft. per gallon until the bucket is empty. You have +/- 10 minutes before the primer will start to set in the bucket, the quicker you pour the epoxy on the floor, the longer working time you have. Do not tip the epoxy container upside-down on the floor. Any unmixed Part-A, Part-B or Part-C could contaminate the cure process.
2. Use a gauge rake, with cams preset at 1/8” or for desired thickness, or a notched squeegee, spread the material. Work the primer into the concrete with a medium-bristle broom using circular motions to ensure proper penetration.
3. Using a 3/8” nap 12–18-inch non-shedding roller with a phenolic (plastic) core, roll the primer forward and backward to distribute it evenly across the entire surface. Roll just as you would paint a floor, ensuring uniform coverage working your way out of the room. Back roll in the opposite direction to level the coating.

No sanding is required.

NOTE: Do not tip the epoxy container upside-down on the floor. Any unmixed Parts could contaminate the cure process.

• Pot life: 10 minutes
• Working time: 15-20 minutes
• Dry time (walking): 6-8 hours (walking)
• Recoat Window: SkipGrind MUST be allowed to cure a MINIMUM of 18-24 hours and completely tack free before recoating with any Epoxy or sealer depending on temperature.

Step 7: Mixing Floor Base-Coat Epoxy

1. Pre-mix the pre-tinted Part A for 3 minutes. Add the entire contents of Part B (1 part B to 2 parts A) into the Part A container, which is intentionally short-filled to achieve the correct ratio. Mix thoroughly for a minimum of 3 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the container to ensure a complete blend.
2. Do not mix more than can be applied within 15 minutes.

Step 8: Apply Epoxy Base-Coat on Concrete Floor

Make sure that temperatures will remain between 50- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity to stay below 75%.

1. While wearing spiked shoes, immediately pour the mixed epoxy onto the floor in 4"–6" wide ribbons, running perpendicular across the surface. Spread at approximately 200-250 sq. ft. per gallon until the bucket is empty. You have +/- 5 minutes before the epoxy will start to set in the bucket, the quicker you pour the epoxy on the floor, the longer working time you have. Do not tip the epoxy container upside-down on the floor. Any unmixed Part A or Part B could contaminate the cure process.
2. Using a 3/8” nap 12–18-inch non-shedding roller with a phenolic (plastic) core, roll and push the epoxy ribbons forward and backward to distribute it evenly across the entire surface. Apply just as you would paint a floor, ensuring uniform coverage working your way out of the room. Back roll in the opposite direction to level the coating.

NOTE: Be cautious to not leave roller lines or ridges which could show through as high points in the flakes.

• Pot life: 5 minutes
• Working time: 30-40 minutes
• Flaked Surface Dry time (walking): 12-14 hours (walking)
• Flaked Surface Dry time (light traffic): 24 hours

Step 9: Flake Broadcasting into Wet Epoxy

This is where the spiked shoes really come into play. Spiked shoes will allow you to walk on the wet epoxy without leaving footprints, damaging the ability of the epoxy to accept the flakes evenly.

Flake Coverage: 1/4" Flake coverage at 100% refusal averages 250 sq. ft.

1. While the floor epoxy is still wet, which it will be, broadcast the included kit epoxy flakes onto the entire surface.
2. (If applicable, first toss flakes onto the concrete block perimeter walls and cove joint side walls. Toss flakes onto the bottom side walls around the garage evenly.)
3. While wearing spiked shoes, broadcast the 1/4" flake chips across the entire surface. For easier application, transfer flakes into a 5-gallon bucket and toss them upward, allowing them to fall evenly onto the floor. Apply to full refusal, fully covering the base coat. A properly broadcast floor will appear dry and uniform, with no shiny spots. If any epoxy is visible, continue applying flakes until complete coverage is achieved.
4. Apply flakes using heaping handfuls, tossing them upward and outward into the air so they fall naturally onto the wet epoxy. Use a light flicking motion, similar to feeding chickens, to help the flakes disperse evenly. Be careful not to dump piles of flakes, this will look unnatural. Aim to broadcast 2–3 feet out in front of you, allowing for consistent, uniform coverage across the surface.
5. You should see an even and dry coating of flake with no shiny spots/areas when properly covered. Add more flakes if you see shiny epoxy showing through.
6. If the floor has low spots where the base coat is deeper, flakes may “sink.” Broadcast sufficient flakes to completely saturate the low spot. Continue tossing flakes moving around as you go, backing out towards your exit until the base-coat is 100% covered completely.

Step 10: Remove Excess Flakes:

1. Allow the flake broadcast garage floor to properly dry and cure, typically 12–18 hours depending on temperature for optimal binding and full system integrity. Once cured, remove excess flakes by scraping the surface with a flat-edge trowel or wide floor scraper. This step knocks down sharp edges, vertical flake buildup, and any loose material to create a smooth, uniform profile.
2. Be sure to clean out control joints as flakes often settle into them during broadcast. Don’t overlook the perimeter, scrape along base areas and lower wall edges with a smaller tool. Finish by sweeping with a stiff broom or using a leaf blower, then vacuum thoroughly to remove all remaining debris before applying the topcoat.

Step 11: Mix Polyaspartic Top-Coat

1. Vigorously shake Part B for approximately 20 to 30 seconds. Pour Part-B hardener into part A bucket. Mix for 1 full minute using a slow-speed drill, scraping the bottom and sides of the mixing container. Mix only that amount which can be spread in 30 minutes.
2. Do not mix more than can be applied within 15 minutes.

Step 12: Apply Polyaspartic Top-Coat Protection

Make sure that temperatures will remain between 50- and 90-degrees Fahrenheit and relative humidity to stay below 75%.

1. While wearing spiked shoes, immediately pour the mixed top-coat onto the floor in 4"–6" wide ribbons, running perpendicular across the surface. Spread at approximately 200-250 sq. ft. per gallon until the bucket is empty. You have +/- 5-10 minutes before the polyaspartic will start to set in the bucket, the quicker you pour the epoxy on the floor, the longer working time you have. Do not tip the mixing container upside-down on the floor. Any unmixed Part A or Part B could contaminate the cure process.
2. (If applicable, first with a paintbrush or small handheld roller, apply top-coat to the cove joint concrete outer side walls of the room.)
3. Using a 3/8” nap 12–18-inch non-shedding roller with a phenolic (plastic) core, roll the top-coat ribbons forward and backward to distribute it evenly across the entire surface. Apply just as you would paint a floor, ensuring uniform coverage working your way out of the room. Back roll in the opposite direction to level the coating.

NOTE: Be cautious to not leave roller lines or ridges which could show through as high points in the flakes.

• Pot life: 5-7 minutes
• Working time: 15-20 minutes
• Dry time (walking): 10 hours (walking)
• Dry time (light traffic): 24 hours
• Return to Service: 48-72 hours